HoF Final!

Photo of Cab Calloway performing and receiving praise for his zoot-suit style (1). Calloway was a musician and performer who popularized the "scat" method of jazz singing, and was known for his energetic personality. The zoot-suit fit this image, as the suits predominant feature were their oversizedness. During the 1930s and 40s, fabric came under rationing as the United States government prepared to enter WW2, and the flaunting of such regulations by zoot-suiters earned wearers scorn and dismissal as self-centered trouble makers. (2)

A modern interpretation of the zoot suit. This suit was tailor-made by the Dallas Vintage Shop, so it is a one-of-a-kind. Interesting that little has been changed from the 1930s/40s originals, with the exception of the introduction of polyester fabrics. (3)

Look by Viktor and Rolf for Spring/Summer 2009. Bright colored red/salmon tops feature a zip-out cardigan and collared shirt. The coloring for these garments is evocative of garish zoot suit coloring. Also, the trousers in this look are loose and baggy, also indicating zoot lineage. (4)

Look by Yves Saint Laurent for Spring/Summer 2010. Zoot suit elements found in this look include the 3/4 length jacket hem, as well as a flared, loose trousers. (5)

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Photo by Jack Moebes (circa 1960), featuring youths dressed in the beatnik style (6). The term was coined based off of author Jack Kerouac's writings on "the beat" -- that is, anywhere something is going down. The "-nik" suffix is a reference to the Soviet satellite "Sputnik", a reference intended to chide followers of the trend as being communists. (7)

Look by Costume National Homme for the Autumn/Winter 2009/10 season. The winter months seem best suited for portraying the beatnik influence, as color schemes are predominantly black. The black turtleneck sweater here is prime indicator of a resurgence of beat-styles. (8)

Look by John Varvatos for Autumn/Winter 2009/10. This outfit features the beatnik color palette of black-on-black-on-black and furthers the look with styling elements featuring a short-brimmed hat and knit scarf. (9)

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Photo of several of England's Teddy Boys, circa early 1970s. The name comes from a derivation of "Edwardian" as English tailors intended to re-interpret Edwardian styles of the turn of the 20th century in an effort to harken back to pre-war elegance. The movement instead gained following with the lower-classes and became identified with rock n' roll/rockabilly. (10)

Look by Paul Smith for the Autumn/Winter 2008/09 season. The Teddy movement was spurned on by the tailors of London's famous Saville Row, who provided the innovations in cut and style tailoring requested by supporters of the fashion trend. Paul Smith is itself an English tailoring house headquartered on Saville Row, and the influence is unmistakable. Here is a 3 piece suit that features a contrasting plaid fabric as jacketting material. (11)

Look by Fred Perry for Spring/Summer 2009 (12). Popular Teddy brand Fred Perry has endured through the decades and finds itself in remarkably good shape as its classic style has resonated with each generation. The Fred Perry brand has undergone tremendous changes with respect to the wearers of the clothes and their fashion/social agendas: Fred Perry was originally a tennis player who improvised his own equipment in the 1930s (similar to Frenchman Rene Lacoste); the look was adopted by the Teddy Boys as chic sportswear; as the Teddys grew older, the brand became synonymous with radical right skinhead movements; and in modern times the brand has regained some of its dignity as unaffiliated streetwear. (13)

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Photo of Robert Nicholls, a young Londoner from the 1960s displaying his Vespa scooter and mod style. Rob describes, "Mod styles were not particularly outrageous but usually consisted of minor adaptations to established styles. Because we were innovating it wasn't possible to find suitable clothes off the peg, instead we had them tailor made. The most exaggerated modification involved the collar style and the width or length of the trousers. At any given time we conformed to the overall Mod look of the era, but would express our individuality by incorporating variations on the theme (14)."

Look by Burberry Prorsum for the Sping/Summer 2010 season. This bright red leather jacket displays modish characteristics. It is both fashionable and functional: displaying classic design elements but expressed in a youthful manner to provoke action. If worn on a Vespa scooter, the wearer would be warm, protected and well styled. (15)
Look by Gilded Age from Spring/Summer 2010. The mod look is found here in simply elegant sportswear which displays a strong sense of fashion, while not being caught up in its own pretentiousness. The outfit creates an aspiring atmosphere, while drawing from classic elements such as Italian fashion design. (16)

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Musicians displaying their affinity for the hippie-look, this photo features members of the Grateful Dead. The photo was taken in San Francisco, around the convergence of Haight and Ashbury streets, which would form the epicenter of the hippie movement in the 1960s. The look was typified by bohemian mixes of intricate ethnic garments which exhibited bright and bold uses of color and contrasting fabrics. (17)

Look by John Galliano for Spring/Summer 2010. The hippie aesthetic is found here in the pastiche of unrelated styling and fabric elements. Hippies tended toward used garments which were mended by hand often with patches of random fabric scraps. Also important is the garland of small branches the model is wearing -- hippies sought a reconnection with nature and often lived outdoors off of the land. (18)

Look by Satyenkumar for Spring/Summer 2010. Major hippie elements are found in the covering parka and styled sandals. The parka expresses a "hippie-vibe" in the choice of soft mauves/purples as predominant color, together with the patchworked effect of the textile print. (19)

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Dominating the disco scene was the Swedish musical group ABBA (20). Inspiring/mimicking the "Saturday Nigh Fever" aesthetic, ABBA members here sport all white polyester suits/overalls accented with sexually ambiguous neckerchiefs and high-platformed shoes. I'm not certain how sporters of this look (and shoes) could dance with any degree of style/stability.

Look by Gucci for Spring/Summer 2009. Skinny-cut white suit featuring pastel colored shirts and accents. The Italians have never made it past the disco-era. (21)

Look by Kilgour from Spring/Summer 2009. This outfit furthers the white suit disco theme. The cut of the suit features sharp angles, evocative of the pointy disco-era collars. Interesting that while disco died a noticeable death in the United States, in Europe the style remained and continues its path of evolution. (22)

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Typifying the punk movement is singer/bassist for the band Sex Pistols, Sid Vicious. Started as a working-class rebellion movement, punk's highest aim to was to shatter illusions of pristine beauty through raw expression of base emotions. Outfits were created as clashing ensembles which typically featured a studded leather jacket, inflammatory T-shirt, tight distressed jeans and heavy Doc Martin brand boots. In this picture, Vicious features all these elements -- particularly of note is the Nazi Swastika worn on the shirt; even more provocative as the photo was taken in once-Nazi-occupied Paris. (23)

Look by Vivienne Westwood for Autumn/Winter 2007/08. Westwood is famous as a high-end designer who came from punk roots in London during the 1970s and 80s. Predominant punk feature here is found on the graphic-print T-shirt, proclaiming a "love for crap." Punks often worn shirts with the intent of unnerving as many people as possible -- this inflammatory shirt is no exception. (24)

Look by William Rast for Autumn/Winter 2009/10 (25). Major punk elements in this look are found in the leather jacket and distressed denim. Leather jackets were a hold-over from post-WW2 soldiers who served in motorcycle platoons. Returning soldiers would continue fraternal relations with comrades, forming roving bands of motorcycle gangs which were infamous in the United States until the 1990s. Wearing these jackets signified a need for protection as the wearer was prone to finding themselves in troubling situations. (26)

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Typifying the hip-hop genre of fashion, here is a group picture of the Compton-based rap group NWA (Niggaz Wit Attitudes; from L to R: Ice Cube, Dr. Dre, Easy E, MC Ren, and DJ Yella). Different sub-genres within hip-hop featured different distinguishing elements: West coast groups such as NWA wore predominantly black, with styling pieces of gold chains and professional sports hats of local teams (Los Angeles-based Dodgers, Raiders and Kings franchises). (27.)

Look by DSquared2 for Spring/Summer 2009 (28). Hip-hop influence is quite obvious here, found in accessories such as gold chain, colored sunglasses and velvet cap. These elements in particular call upon rapper LL Cool J as muse. (29.)

Look by James Long for Spring/Summer 2010 season. This ensemble emphasizes the "bling" element of hip-hop fashion. Gold chains are here integrated into the fabric itself; the result is a metallic finish to the fabric which gives off tremendous luster. The look is completed with sunglasses used as styling. (30.)

Also of interesting hip-hop note is the evolution in style of Sean "Puff Daddy/P.Diddy" Combs as displayed by his clothing company Sean John. Featured here is a pin-striped, 4 buttoned, 3 piece suit which exemplifies Sean John's suiting line (31). Realizing their place as icons, rappers have been getting into the clothing hustle with increased vigor; lines such as FUBU were first aped and then surpassed by Combs' Sean John as well as Jay Z's Rocawear company. (32)

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My first chosen trend is "Grunge-chic" stemming from Washington state during the early 1990s. Personifying this style was singer/songwriter/guitarist Kurt Cobain of the band Nirvana. Grunge was the continuation of the punk/rock movement, but was typified by its lack of effort or continuity. Tops and bottoms were paired with little intent, the focus was more that the clothes provide a modicum of function (eg. flannel shirts and denim jeans), but this function was often distorted or lost through excessive wear on the garments. (33.)

Look by DSquared2 for Spring/Summer 2010. This outfit represents the grunge elements of mix-and-match. Denim jeans are present, as are multi-layered tops (and further accentuated by the jacket worn tied around the waist). The garments all speak to layering against the elements (particularly with rugged boots), while straining to express the wearer's rejection of traditional put-together notions of style. (34)


Sweater from Fashion East Menswear Installation for Spring/Summer 2010. (35.)















Nirvana poster featuring distorted smiley-face. (36)

Second sweater from Fashion East Menswear Installation for Spring/Summer 2010. The horizontal striped hoops are reminiscent of striped shirts/sweaters worn by Cobain. Glittered sequins mimic the bright lights/aura of the rock star Cobain tried unsuccessfully to avoid.

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My final trend is the "fisherman chic". The vocation is infamous for it's typically cold and wet environment, which requires it's clothing to provide warmth and dryness. Additionally, bright external colors are typically featured as a safety feature (in case of a crew member falling overboard), paired against blues and navys as undergarments. (37.)

Look from Hermes of Autumn/Winter 2009/10 season. Spotted immediately is the fisherman influence on the yellow rain jacket featured here. The yellow slickie is strongly evocative of the above Gorton's aesthetic and mimics the water-repelling features of the source. (38.)

Look from Band of Outsiders/Boy from Autumn/Winter 2009/10 season. The jacket here continues the nautical theme, best expressed here in the use of toggles as center front cinches. The jacket itself is based off of the peacoat design with navy wool fabric providing insulation and quick-dry properties. The cinching cord between the toggles is reminiscent of sailing cording and knot-tying. (39)


Last, but not least, a professional sports entry. The NHL (National Hockey League) experienced a minor melt-down in the form of a players-lockout during the 1994 season. The next season brought about wholesale changes in teams (Quebec moved to Denver, Winnipeg moved to Phoenix and Hartford moved to Raleigh) as well in uniforms (teams wore a 3rd set of uniforms for the first time and many experimented with new branding direction). The New York Islanders rebranded themselves, with tremendous outcry of disapproval (40). The logo was deemed too similar to the Gorton's Fisherman and the uniforms were scraped and replaced with their old uniforms after a single season.

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1.) http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ae7k6UTYxWc/R3GyBTC8qII/AAAAAAAAAfk/FvjgLnfzRkw/BE028139.jpg
2.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cab_Calloway
3.) http://dallasvintageshop.com/?cat=102
4.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=17&idmarchio=6553
5.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=7893
6.) http://www.corbisimages.com/Enlargement/Enlargement.aspx?id=BE066573&ext=1
7.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beatnik
8.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=18&idmarchio=7281
9.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=2&idsezione=4&idstagione=18&idmarchio=7312
10.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teddy_Boy
11.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=3&idsezione=4&idstagione=16&idmarchio=5740
12.) http://www.highsnobiety.com/news/2009/02/08/fred-perry-x-peter-jensen-oversize-harrington-jacket/
13.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Perry
14.) http://www.themodgeneration.co.uk/2009/06/rob-london-mod.html
15.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=7867
16.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=2&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=8348
17.) http://beatpatrol.wordpress.com/2009/09/
18.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=7908
19.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=8528
20.) http://jerseyarts.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/abba.jpg
21.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=17&idmarchio=6401
22.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=17&idmarchio=6423
23.) http://scissorscanbeatpaper.blogspot.com/2009/08/sid-vicious-pictures-images-and-photos.html
24.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=13&idmarchio=4268
25.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=18&idmarchio=7708
26.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather_jacket
27.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N.W.A
28.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=2&idsezione=4&idstagione=17&idmarchio=6412
29.) http://www.mcgillismusic.com/images/LL%20Cool%20J%20Pictures%202007.jpg
30.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=8506
31.) http://www1.seanjohn.com/nshop/product.php?view=listing&dept=men&category=menssuiting&groupName=menssuits&both=yes
32.) http://www.rocawear.com/nshop/product.php?view=listing&groupName=mouterwear&dept=men&both=yes
33.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grunge
34.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=2&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=7884
35.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=19&idmarchio=8510
36.) http://artistaday.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/nirvana1.jpg
37.) http://heateatreview.com/2008/03/01/gortons-fish-fillet-recall/
38.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=18&idmarchio=7353
39.) http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/_catwalks/Default.aspx?page=1&idsezione=4&idstagione=18&idmarchio=7704
40.) http://www.islanderspointblank.com/2008/10/the-tale-of-the-fisherman-jerseyor-shame-and-mutiny-on-the-bounty/