6-shooters

front of my jeans! these are based off of the ruester cogburns "select smith and wesson" design, but slightly modified. the major design thrust of these pants was creating my own pair of selvage denim jeans. when purchased in a store, selvaged jeans run from $300-400 (based on quality of denim, quality of indigo dye, and whether they were imported from the land of milk, honey and selvage denim: japan).











front inside detail. i used the patch design from bryce's pair as the inside branding patch -- nice, bold, and iconic and without any kind of model identification. also added some tags indicating size and a little secondary logo featuring an "r", "c" and some vestigial umlauts. the pocket bags were simple white cotton, which i imagine will turn a baby blue upon first washing.






front change pocket detail. the rivets on this pair were much better, thanks to my finding a rivet-clamp for application. a lesson learned: never hammer-in anything, ever.










back view. mmmm, there's that exposed selvage on the outseam of the cuffs. so hot right now.
















sweet, sexy selvaged outseam. what is selvage you ask? well, it's the...meh, i'll let wikipedia handle it. sadly, this isn't true selvage denim, as indicated by the extraneous fraying on one side of the selvage line -- true selvaged denim is woven on a shuttle-loom which eliminates those frays with tighter locking threads (the red threads here). the tricky part of the pants (and what makes them so expensive) is that each leg must be straight, to run along the selvage line of the fabric. this leaves about 4/5 of the width of your fabric bolt unused (unless you're using all that fabric to make a 2nd pair of non-selvaged jeans for your buddy in san diego)







back/side view. leather patch detail, indicating "ruester cogburns' six shooters: select selvage denim." the 6-shooting refers to the hip embroidery, which features a grouping of 6 slash marks (in 1. 2. 3. 4. slash=5. then, 6.) in a "shoot-from-the hip" style. back pockets are "x" top-stitched.

colt cuts

front of bryce's pair of jeans. this was the first pair completed, and served as the test-run. these are based off of the "colt-cut" model of the ruester cogburns line.















front detailed. the only trouble came from applying the rivets to the pocket corners: the rivets are "hammer-in" which requires a lot of force, but it is nigh-impossible to keep the two rivet pieces aligned. the "u" curved shape of the rivets is the result...








inside, front view. the pockets are made from plaid flannel, as is the fly-guard. the red theme is continued with the red poly zipper.











back view

















leather patch detailed. also, back pockets are lined with plaid flannel...oh so softies
















side view

ruester cogburns

"ruester cogburns" cover page. it was a harrowing process to make the screen for the border/filigree (i'm officially at guerrilla-status when it comes to the school's print lab), and ended up taking about a week -- first tries where confounded by faulty equipment, then poor screen quality. i went with the "-ue-" version, over the "-oo-" or "-ü-" just for consistencies sake. as the collection was inspired by john wayne's "true grit", all the jean cuts are named after olde west firearms.



"select smith & wessons." this is the high-end model. features selvage seams which are intended to be rolled up into cuffs. also features embroidered monograms on the back pockets. the shirt features overlaid patch-work on the breasts.








"ithaca fully loaded." cargo jeans. there's a lot going on with these pants, and i like the busy-ness. those are patches over the knees.











"dropped derringers." low-rise jeans. yes, only the left back pocket is red (screen printed denim). and i'd rock that raglan jacket so hard...something about horizontal corduroys...










"schofield breeches/breechlocks." the boot-cut jeans. the boot-cut made me really identify with olde west gun-slingers, so i made a little inlaid section on the right thigh reminiscent of a gun holster. also an extra seam around the leg at this point, representing the holster's lanyard. i'm really fond of the double-brested jacket as well (the "butt-stock" flap on the right gets me all loosey in my goosey).





"colt-cuts." the regular/basic/standard jean cut. they feature seam tags at the hem, which would be printed/embroidered with the rooster logo.











"springfield carbines." this is the "hipster" look. you can tell because the jacket is red (instead of brown), the shirt is blue (instead of red) and the jeans are tapered super-narrow by darts at the hems.









"winchester straight shooters." straight-legged jeans. i really, really like the multi-colored jacket fabric: amazing slubby cotton fabric from...japan of course. must they continuously rock so hard?










"blessed brownings." a horizontal corduroy look. apparently this has already been started by a local sf company lindland's. here's a link to their "cordarounds"










back page of book-binding. ruester's slogan is featured center: a riff, off of a line a drunk at a bar thought was quite clever.

HOORAY! IT'S DONE! more work could have been spent, but such is always the case. now onto the hackafore pan-pacific surf safari collection...

sample cogburns

embroidered back pocket. this would be the right pocket; the left would feature an embroidered "r" for... rüster, rüster cogburns











front-view pin-strip threading. the thread is black, and so hard to pick-out against the navy denim.











reverse-view of pin-stripe threading

















front-view back pocket. red thread.













reverse-view of red-printed inside back pocket

















red-printed back pocket. red thread.













printed rooster logo back pocket sample. gold thread.













outside 1st pocket sample. gold thread. i'm holding it at this angle so you can make out the change-pocket. gotta save those quarters...















inside pocket-bag. rooster print. you can also see the understiching from the change-pocket.
















outside view of 2nd pocket sample. red thread!

















inside view of pocket-bag. rüster cogburns font print and patterned pistol/ eye-patch/ marshal badge.