Monday, October 5, 2009

Draping v. Tailoring

Draping #1: Knights of the Templar tunics. These basic tunics were worn to declare alliance to the Roman Catholic Church during the successive Crusades to wrest the Holy Lands from Muslim control. Knights were awarded the white tunic as a symbol of their spiritual purity, while the red Maltese cross was symbolic of the blood Christ spilled to absolve humanity's original sin. Lesser sergeants were ascribed the black-tunic. The chain-mail armor was also an example of draping, as sheets of mail were wrapped around the wearer during fittings to assure proper fit/ protection.








Draping #2: Royal Hawai'ian feathered cape. Intricately feathered capes were worn by various royalty residing primarily in the southern hemisphere where there exist a higher concentration of boldly colored birds. These capes were highly prized, both for their bright colors but also for the cost of obtaining enough feathers to comprise an entire cape.












Draping #3: Pope Benedict XVI's Papal robes. The design of the Pope's vestments have not changed radically through the ages. A variation on the classic robes worn by Christian monks, the Pope's outfit consists primarily of a full-length cassock worn with various capes and shawls on top.











Papal clothing names.
















Tailoring #1: Traditional Chinese cheongsam. Both this and the Japanese kimono seemed to straddle the tailored/draped divide. The Chinese "long dress" exhibits greater tailoring, as the upper, bodice portion of the dress is fit snugly to the wearer's chest. The design is fairly basic, with customizing options available in sleeve length, textile choice and buttoning options.











Basic cheongsam pattern draft.

















Tailoring #2: Stacy Adam's brand zoot suit. This is a modern interpretation of the classic 1930s/40s design zoot suits. The basic guidelines for a zoot suit detail a long lengthed coat (usually 3/4 length), paired with high-waisted and narrow-cuffed trousers. The suits are famous for their use of boldly colored fabrics; the image to the left was labeled as "Rust" color. The suits were typically worn by minorities who remained in the United States in the lead-up and during the Second World War. Tensions directed against these minorities mounted, as the notion was fostered that these dandies were both not contributing to the war effort and at the same time were socializing with women whose husbands/significant others were abroad fighting.






Tailoring #3: 2009/10 England Home jersey made by Umbro. The catch-phrase Umbro chose to represent the new design direction was "Tailored by Umbro in England." The company wanted to evoke the spirit of London's Saddle Row in the design and fit of these newest jerseys. Each shirt/short kit was fitted to their respective player (the image to the left crafted for defender John Terry) and features a white on white color scheme. This is no simple white T-shirt though; closer examination reveals underarm paneling (a ribbed fabric) as well as side panels down the length of the side seams.







Detailed sketches from the design process. More video can be found here!









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