Munro ro ro your boat

Umber & Ochre has officially released their Munro Denim Jacket for the Spring 2013 season!  Named in honor of Burt Munro, this jacket was designed for speed!  It features overlay chest pockets, which are easily accessed thanks to the action pleats across the back yoke.  Produced in limited runs, these jackets are going fast!

The jacket self fabric is 12oz. Japanese Indigo White-selvedge Denim, with waxed cotton used as contrast.  The lining is an organic cotton flannel.

Overlay pocket with patch pocket detail.  The pocket flap even features a bar-tac pen-pocket! If you're sharp, you can also see the zig-zag stitch up the front placket and on to the contrast under collar.

Cuff details -- the sleeve placket is riveted for reinforcement.

Jacket back.

Action pleat detail.  The pleats are held in place by parallel elastic bands above and below the yoke line.  The lining also features these pleats, so freedom of movement is ensured!

Waistband tab detail

A couple of the jackets were also made without contrast pieces.  Yummy.

View of the lining, interior patch pocket (with peek-a-boo selvedge) & branding labels.  *whew*

Fresh coats of paint

In the middle of refurbishing my Senior Collection portfolio.  Updating both the flats and croquis -- trying to provide some more detail and information to the garments.  Here are the first couple looks:

More to come!

Shootin photos

A friend contacted me recently about putting my senior collection in a photo shoot.  There's a new fashion magazine about to begin publishing here in SF, and they were looking for a hip military theme for the first issue.  Here are a couple of the photos:

Politburo peacoat & Ronehn baseball T

Omega Red blazer & Alexi pants

Bilibin blazer & Kapron collared shirt

Photos by Melvin Harper.  Shoot produced by Alexandra Thurmond.  Thanks everyone!

RIP Jerry Buss

Just revisiting this birthday card I made for my roommate Gavin.  

O, simpler times

Nightmares

Doing some portfolio work, and wanted to get some extra practice in on technical flats and performance wear.  So, I decided to do a little basketball collection based on my UCSF rec league team -- the Nightmares.  A little co-branding with adidas to add that layer of authenticity, and here we go!

Inspiration 

Logo variations

Home uniform

Aways

Throw-back thirds

Development page

Vigons Football Club

A request came in from Umber & Ochre owner Kunal, to come up with some t-shirt designs for his son's soccer team "Vigons FC".  Kunal provided me with their existing logo and wanted to see what I could come up with. Since Kunal owns and operates some factories in India, I figured the sky was the limit, and tackled this thing head on!

Vigons' existing crest

Sketching out some ideas for revamping the crest.  The dragon looked a little too clip-arty for me, so I was excited to play around with the graphic opportunities a subject like a wyvern presents.  Also, the pooch in the corner was from a separate project -- Peasants & Travelers was making some pet beds and needed some mock-ups done :)

Trying some sketches in Photoshop with my Wacom.  Trying to capture the fluid twisting of the dragon.

Playing with a couple font directions.

 Quick flats of some possible jersey directions.  With only the crest to go off, I wanted the jerseys to be fairly non-partisan.  Just mesh and pipping, thank you.

In the end, Kunal really only wanted patches sewn on some black Tshirts to sell to the parents.  O well, but we can do that too!

Batches on batches

Our box of printed Tshirts ran dry recently, so I took it upon myself to help refill it!  Trying to think of designs that would appeal to the local clientele, I went with my Aum & Atlantis prints.  The screens had already been burned and Bryce dropped off a dufflebag of blank shirts the last time he was up in the bay, so making these was pretty painless.  Woohoo!

A couple of the women's Aum shirts

Run of Atlantis shirts

Close-up of the Atlantis print.  I made these with a single paint pull of gold, but dropped a little splotch of red above the eyes to create the glowing effect.  

Into the boo box with ye!  Sold the 2 gold on black Aum shirts already...off to a flying start!

Monograming Shirts

Following up on getting 49er shirts in the store, we decided to go with the "Es Ef"design.  The thought being the development & marketing timing would be better applied to a design that could work for both the current 49er-fever as well as the near-by Giants -- who start their World Series-defending season in April. The interlocking "SF" should work for both, with just a change in self color to denote a difference.

Original color options on technical flats

Drafting out the pattern.  

Cut pattern pieces grouped according to straight-line edges.  Those Fs are tricky!

Using some fusible facing helps stabilize the corners.  O, so many corners!

Little bit of tagging.  Samples are usually in a Medium -- hooray! they fit!

Three color options for the sample run: Red on Black, Red on Gold, and Gold on Red. 

On the racks and ready for the Harbowl Sunday!  Go Niners!

Outdoor Retailers Convention!

Umber & Ochre's co-owner Kunal Desai invited me to attend this year's Outdoor Retailers' Convention held bi-annually in Salt Lake City.  Featuring exhibitors like adidas, Arc'teryx, Mountain Khaki, Puma, Burton, Quicksilver, North Face & many more, the decision was an easy one for me!  The only trick wound up being that 2:30am wake-up call to catch my shuttle to the Oakland airport...the things we do for fashion

...sometimes I forget it snows in places still

Our first stop was at the brand Kavu.  Kunal was trying to arrange a fabric order, which allowed me some time to check out their collection of plaid flannels.  

Arc'teryx.  The only place that didn't want pictures :,(

Line-up of skis by Black Diamond.  I'm liking the geometric gradients

The climbing wall in a rare moment of solitude

adidas booth featuring the new Terrex line of featherweight jackets.  

Runway fashion show at Mountain Khakis.  The boys from Jackson Hole served as my hosts -- Kunal has a history of selling fabric and finished production garments and was able to arrange for our attendance.  Thanks -- great to meet you, Ned & Noah!

Swatch wall at the trend booths

Hi-lite contrast back pieces on a North Face running jacket

Wall of graphic Ts!  Digging the vintage chateau travel poster aesthetic.

Here to answer your flannel queries

 

Inspiring Salt Palace artwork

Helly Hansen's lining nodules!  The jacket is turned inside-out, so each packet (stuffed with down) targets warmth to the most advantageous points across your back...and you know, it makes you look like a dinosaur!

Single-piece knit top.  Well done New Balance -- might want to tighten up that weave along the side seams though

The Mountain Khaki folks ended the night Friday by setting up a mechanical bull-riding competition!  Neither Kunal nor myself took home a prize, but it was a fun ride none the less